
Antipodeans may be able to teach the British a thing or two about rugby but when it comes to lamb it’s a different story. The problem is not so much the animal, nor is it the quality of the meat. The problem is the journey. Lamb shipped from New Zealand has to be deep chilled or frozen, but although cooling down Eddie Jones on his journey from Australia has done wonders for his flavour, the deep freeze just doesn’t have the same effect on meat: treated this way it looses its texture and tenderness. Lambs just aren’t designed to travel—ask a sheepdog. It’s not that British lamb is best, it’s just that it’s the best in Britain.
The problem for British farmers is that during winter months they have much higher production costs because the lambs need to be kept indoors. Poor little lambs. It has been a particular problem this year because Easter is unusually early and Easter is when demand is strongest (we managed to get through 8,000 tons of it in March). So the big supermarkets sell imports from New Zealand. But unlike their rugby players it arrives in a state of suspended animation.
Mysteriously Aldi is the only supermarket that seems able to adjust—not only are they the only ones selling exclusively British lamb, but they’re also selling it at a discount. Aldi’s price is £3.79 / kg. The Co-op is charging £6.24 / kg — you’d pay less than that for the whole of the Italian pack.
Personally I’m not one for brands: I’m not sure that I could tell the difference between any one of the dozen or so tomato sauces that clutter my grocer’s shelves. But when it comes to lamb it’s a different story—you don’t need to be an expert—the difference is obvious. You don’t need to be told when you are in the presence of greatness.
All we need now is for Aldi to put out a rugby team.